Frog Eyed Salad

2011 Rising Star of the Year: St. Jack

As St. Jack chef Aaron Barnett tells it, the bouchon, a traditional Lyonnaise restaurant serving hearty dishes and plenty of wine, was born of necessity. Although much French butchery was performed in Lyon, the best cuts were always shipped north to Paris. Chefs in Lyon made do with what remained.

Using everything available, enjoying food and wine for their own sakes, making chicken liver mousse when life gives you chicken liver -- all those things make the bouchon pretty darned Portland, Barnett thinks.

"Making do" could be the motto at Clinton Street bouchon and patisserie St. Jack , The Oregonian's Rising Star for 2011.

By design, St. Jack has something for everyone. It's a bouchon, sure, and a large one by French standards, but everything here is more than meets the eye. Your waiter might have spent the morning picking your salad greens on his farm. Not one but three staff members are trained sommeliers. A line cook started out as a dishwasher, impressed Barnett and rose through the ranks. The pastry chef once worked at Daniel, a Michelin three-star restaurant in Manhattan, before she fell hard for Portland.

In the morning, you'll find cafe-goers drinking coffee and reading the paper at the pastry counter. The long dining table in the restaurant is raised to waist height and used to roll dough. A man stands near the kitchen entrance, his arm shoved halfway down a meat grinder. As the sun heads west, diners munch on light snacks or an open-faced salmon sandwich, perhaps with a glass of wine. As darkness gathers, the little white globe lamp above the night entrance, stenciled "St. Jack," flickers to life. Dinner is on. The pastry counter becomes a salad prep station, and the long table has long since been lowered, scrubbed and put back into service.

Barnett was born in Canada, but not where you might think. "Everybody wants me to be Québécois," he says. "But I'm from right in the middle, Alberta." He moved to Los Angeles when he was young, survived the culture shock and, after secondary education didn't take, committed to becoming a chef. He got a break at Lumière, the since-closed, high-end Vancouver, B.C., restaurant, then went to boot camp at San Francisco's Restaurant Gary Danko. He arrived in Portland four years ago, and was executive chef at 23Hoyt for more than two years, until the restaurant transitioned toward pub grub, and Barnett set out on his own.

The Polka-Dot Umbrella: Frog Eye Salad

This is a summertime favorite for my family. My husband and dad both love it. I like that this recipe makes a huge bowl full. I have never tried to half the recipe, there is never a need. What doesn’t get eaten the first round is divided up for anyone who wants it for lunch the next day! It’s perfect for potlucks and BBQs. The hard thing about this salad is that it has to be made in two steps with at least 8 hours between each. If you do the first part before bed, you can get up and finish in the morning. Drain juice from fruit. Remember to save the pineapple juice. Leave fruit in strainer and put in refrigerator. You want to drain as much juice from the fruit as possible. The juice makes the salad runny. Cook pasta according to package directions Drain, put in large bowl and set aside Mix sugar, flour and salt Gradually add eggs and pineapple juice Cook on medium heat until thick almost like pudding Stir in lemon juice Mix sauce and pasta together. Refrigerate covered overnight, at least 8 hours. We love having people link to our blog, and you may use one or two pictures as long as you give us clear photo credit. Please don't post full tutorials or copy content from our blog. We love and want to protect our kids. Do not use pictures of them without permission. All our patterns and tutorials are intended for you to make items for yourself or as gifts. Please don't sell them. The ideas and images belong to the blog authors unless indicated otherwise.

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